Caring for Pottery
Shown below are a number of approaches to caring for
pottery as suggested by members of the On-line Art
Pottery Discussion Group. These are approaches that have
worked for them. There is no guarantee that they will
work for you.
Before using any of these suggestions on a valuable
piece of pottery, the AAPA recommends you consult a
competent restorer or conservator.
Removing mineral deposits
| Lightening darkened crazing
| Removing felt pads
Cleaning matte surfaces
| Removing "silver" marks
"One of the pots I bought...is a low bowl... with a
satiny matte blue-green glaze. It must have had a
flowerpot or some other watery thing inside, because
when I bought it, it was crusted over inside with a
mineral deposit of some kind...When I got home, I was
able to brush off much of this deposit, then I washed
the inside of the pot, and more flaked off. (The glaze
underneath is quite intact where I've gotten the stuff
off)... I scraped at the stuff with my fingernails,
which are now quite worn, since this stuff has the
texture of sandpaper. I scraped with a plastic knife,
which I thought would not scrape the pot. It didn't, but
the stuff didn't come out, either. I tried filling it
with a mixture of 1/2 water, 1/2 vinegar, which didn't
seem to work any better than the water alone, and then I
decided I should ask people who know more about these
things! I think this deposit is equivalent to what
collects inside teakettles in hard water areas. Any help
with this would be greatly appreciated! "
Suggestions
From: Larry (Heirloom Restorations) at trunkstoo@home.com
"Use Lime Away with rust remover to clean the pot.
Either submerge it in a plastic bucket or fill the pot
and keep applying to the deposit on the outside until it
is clean. Do not use Clorox. It will go into any crazing
and will continue to leach a white powdery substance out
of the crazing for months. It will also cause the glaze
to eventually fail. If the rust remains, use CLR or a
cleaner containing oxalic acid to remove the rust. Do
not dilute either cleaner. Depending on the type of
deposit, you may need to use both Lime Away and CLR.
From: Rod at rdmpottery@worldnet.att.net
"Okay I don't use it on any Great items but toilet bowl
cleaner has worked terrific for me. It works great on
rust and lime and doesn't ever seem to hurt the glaze. I
know it seems a little toxic but is incredibly fast. Any
good or bad stories on this? Rod"
From: Candace at cylor@apex.net
"Don't use Dip-it. I tried this and it took the color
where the glaze was crazed. I tried an old pot of no
value just to see, not good results. I sure hope no one
else tries it; it does severe damage to a pot! Denture
tablets work, I have used them."
From: Carol at cellison2@home.com
"I've not used Dip It, but have had great luck with the
classic household stained-teeth-and-coffee-pot cleaner,
baking soda. I usually wash the pot, then just mix three
to four tbs with about a quart and a half of water and
let the pot soak for 15 to 30 minutes, then wash well
again in mild dish soap and water. I've used this only
on glass and hard enamel finishes. I do not know if it
would be recommended for others. I've found baking soda
to be a great and mild all-purpose cleaner for scale,
dirt and many stains."
Back to Top
Suggestions
From: Sally at mskopp@home.com
"I found a book at the library a while back that
recommended lightening crazing using these steps:
Thoroughly soak the pottery piece in water.
Soak clean rags (such as old white tee-shirts) in a
50-50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and water and wrap
them around the pottery, covering it completely.
(Someone else... recommended a 40% hydrogen peroxide
used straight.)
Pop the pottery into a large plastic bag, seal the bag,
and put it away.
Check the pottery every 3 days or so. If the rags dry
out and the crazing isn't lightened sufficiently,
re-soak the rags in solution, reapply to pottery, put it
back in the plastic and wait longer.
This process may take several WEEKS (yes, I said weeks)
but it does lighten heavy crazing. I tried it on an old
McCoy vase that looked like tortoise-shell (it was
supposed to be white.) After three weeks some of the
crazing had completely disappeared, and the worst had
lightened enough that I felt OK about putting it on Ebay.
It really helped. So does having patience.
I wouldn't use this technique on a cold-painted item."
From: Larry (Heirloom Restorations) at trunkstoo@home.com
"I use hydrogen peroxide to bleach out crazing. Buy the
40% solution from beauty supply houses. Do not use the
over the counter weak solution available at drug stores.
You do not need to dilute the solution with water. DO
wear water proof gloves to protect your hands. Yes, it
may take weeks to bleach out the dirt. I hadn't
mentioned this procedure because the question was
relating to mineral deposits.
An important first step that I take for granted and
didn't mention was a thorough cleaning before placing
the item in peroxide. Always thoroughly clean any pot
before bleaching. First, wet the pot thoroughly and
brush lightly to remove dirt. Next, I use a spray
cleaner like Mean Green or Thunderbolt. Failure to wet
the pot before applying the cleaner or bleaching could
result in "setting" the stain or dirt making removal
next to impossible. This is particular true of bisque
finishes like Wedgwood, Radford Jasperware, Ecanada, and
Bement.
Some restorers use the cleaners for false teeth and
claim great results. I tried one of them 20 years or so
ago, wasn't pleased and never tried them again. Just
last week at the Association of Restorers convention at
San Jose, someone told me they were using false teeth
cleaners and were very pleased. Most of us use hydrogen
peroxide.
Do not use Clorox. It will go into any crazing and will
continue to leach a white powdery substance out of the
crazing for months. It will also cause the glaze to
eventually fail."
Back to Top
"I recently acquired a great Weller Hudson vase, and it
had little velvet dots on the bottom when I bought it. I
'm curious if anyone has an opinion on these. Everything
else I own is "dot" free, and my first impulse was to
try to rip 'em off. I stopped immediately, because I was
afraid that I might damage the areas where the dots
touch the glaze. For now, I'm leaving them, but does
anyone have a recommendation as to how to remove these
safely? Would you leave them on?"
Suggestions
From: Tvlampboy@aol.com
"I'd leave them on; however, if you suspect foul play,
I'd use a touch of acetone to remove them. Just bast it
on with a Q Tip and let it soak on the felt pads, then
gently pry them off with your fingernail. If paint comes
of THEN, then you're dealing with repair and that is
when I'd call the dealer and proceed accordingly.
(Acetone should not hurt the fired glaze on a piece of
"Hudson"). Good luck!"
From: mskopp@home.com
"If you want to take off the dots, dampen a cloth or
cotton ball with nail polish remove (acetone) and soak
the dots. They should come off easily without damaging
the glaze. Acetone will clean glazed pottery without
damage. It will remove cold paint or anything applied on
top of the glaze."
From: anhua@att.net
"Many felt pads have been dyed with various colors which
may bleed if exposed to water and certainly if exposed
to solvents. This soluble dye can travel into glaze
craze or fine hairlines and set as a permanent stain if
you are not careful. It would be best to peel them off
of the foot rim first and then remove the adhesive
residue with a swab of mineral spirit (excepting areas
of previous restoration). If you are buying felt pads,
opt for the white ones."
From: barbjd@swbell.net
"I have to put my voice in for the Goo Gone. That stuff
works miracles. I'd soak the piece first to remove the
felt then the Goo Gone will remove the remaining glue.
It'd also work without removing the felt first but it's
going to run the color from he felt I think.
I use that stuff on anything I can't get off with a
washcloth."
Back to Top
"I have Fujiyama and Woodland pieces that have an
accumulation of dust and dirt on the unglazed portion of
the exterior. They are really special pieces and I would
commit Hari-Kari if I damaged them in the process of
cleaning. Any help on this one?"
Suggestions
From: Hildaprits@aol.com
"I suggest a good new make-up brush. Not a small one.
Then very carefully dust the area you indicate. Also a
steady stream of air like the kind that comes in a can
to clean computer keyboards might help. Above all, go
slowly and carefully you lucky man."
Back to Top
"I was wondering if you could help me on the subject of
removing silver marks on a white matte piece."
Suggestions
From: tshubert@TTU.EDU
"My tip is for removing those dark metallic looking
marks on Van Briggle and unglazed pottery. What works
for me is a few gently strokes with a Scotch-Brite pad
that has some WD-40 on it. I have to stress the GENTLY
part!!!"
From: Bob at AmArtPotAssn@aol.com
"Try rubbing gently with a hard rubber eraser -- the
kind that used to come on some ball point pens; white
and a little "gritty" to the touch."
From: Gail at ggarlick@nyc.rr.com
"Silver marks can be removed with a product called bar
keepers friend. I would test it on an inconspicuous spot
but it is terrific stuff. It also is good for rust
marks." |
